Author: Igor

/// Last week we spent 4 days at Han Derventa (5km from Pale) to wake up this forgotten climbing area from it’s beauty sleep.

It was a strong group action with climbers from Sarajevo and Pale – first of all big thanks to everyone who showed up and helped!

The rock is excellent and completely unpolished with mostly longer routes up to 30m, mostly in the easier grades between 5 and 6b.

Most routes had a mix variety of different bolts, 95 % rotten or a bad material mix, lots of anchors missing. The rust is expectable after 20 years, with the material of that time. From the 42 existing routes we managed to rebolt:

✔️ 2 sectors with 23 routes –

?All routes with homemade materials were rebolted with 12mm inox bolts which have a lifespan of 20 years plus.

?A few routes had some good inox 10mm bolts, these we decided not to waste. We replaced the anchors and the few bad bolts with similar 10mm inox bolts.

♻️ Old bolts were cut off, inserted and closed with rock-coloured glue

Strong bolting crew: Igor Milosev, Sebastian Maier, Igor Vukic and David Lemmerer.

Because most routes were hidden under thick vegetation, dust and had a good amount of loose rocks, they needed a complete cleanup. Thanks for the great help: Ajdin Ajdas, Monroe M

anson, Aida Starcevic, Elma Okice, Emir Hanic, Dorde Raden, Dino Pecar and Alen Kontic ⛏?

Aspiring climbers Nikola Rusticevic and friends completely rebuilt the goat fence and made a new gate to access the left sector ??

? Selma Glibanovic and Edna Covic ?

Hope we didn’t forget anyone who helped with ground work, cleaning up, etc. ?

And last but not least the routes were climbed for a final inspection ?‍♀️Five stars!

Big thanks also to the farm owner Vladan, who was extremely hospitable and welcoming! You can buy his excellent goat cheese ?? and handmade soaps (brand “Alpina”), which are produced just under the rocks.

We talked to some of the other neighbours whose houses are just next to the rocks.
We confirmed that all climbers are welcome.
?Please just keep the noise level down cause the rocks are right next to the houses.

Enjoy! ?‍♂️

This “BiH climbing fusion” project is funded by the Embassy of Switzerland in Bosnia and Herzegovina throughout MarketMakers, a project supported by the Government of Switzerland, implemented by a consortium of Helvetas Schweiz and Kolektiv / Posao.ba.

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/// Prošle sedmice proveli smo četiri dana u Han Derventi (5 km o Pala) kako bismo probudili ovo uspavano penjalište iz dubokog sna.

Bila je to jaka radna akcija sa penjačima iz Sarajeva i sa Pale, veliko hvala svima koji su se pojavili i koji su pomogli!

Stijena je odlična, vrhunskog trenja sa uglavnom dužim smjerovima do 30m, uglavnom lakših ocjena od 5 do 6b.

Većina smjerova su imali pomješane različite vrste boltova, 95% ih je propalo ili je imalo lošu kombinaciju materijala, često bez sidrišta. Nakon 20 godina mogli smo očekivati rđu obzirom na korištene materijale. Od 42 postojeća smjera uspjeli smo da reboltamo:

✔️ 2 sektora sa 23 smjera

?Svi smjerovi koji su bili opremljeni materijalima iz kućne radinosti su reboltani sa 12mm inox boltovima koji imaju životni vijek duži od 20 godina

?Nekoliko smjerova su imali dobre 10mm inoks boltove, i za njih smo odlučili da je bolje da ostanu još neko vrijeme. Zamjenili smo sidrišta i nekoliko loših boltova sa novim 10mm inoks boltovima.

♻️ Stare boltove smo odsjekli, ukucali u stijenu, a rupe smo popunili ljepkom

Ekipu za rebolt su činili: Igor Milošev, Sebastian Maier, Igor Vukic and David Lemmerer.

Obzirom da je većina smjerova bila prekrivena gustom vegetacijom i prašinom i obzirom da je bilo i krušljivih stijena, dodatne snage su bile potrebne. Veliko hvala pomagačima: Ajdin Ajdas, Monroe Manson, Aida Starcevic, Elma Okice, Emir Hanic, Dorde Raden, Dino Pecar and Alen Kontic ⛏?

Motivisani budući penjači Nikola Rusticevic i prijatelji komplet su napravili novu ogradu za koze, te su prokrčili stazicu do lijevog sektora.??

? Selma Glibanovic and Edna Covic ?

Nadamo se da nismo nikoga zaboravili ?

I u sklopu finalne inspekcije, probali smo smjerove ?‍♀️ Pet zvjezdica!

Veliko hvala i vlasniku farme Vladanu, koji je bio izuzetno gostoljubiv i prijatan. U sklopu njegove farme kojase nalazi pod stijenama možete uzeti odlični kozji sir ?? i ručno rađene sapune (brenda “Alpina”).

Razgovarali smo sa okolnim komšijama čije se kuće nalaze tu u blizini i dobili smo povratnu informaciju da su svi penjači dobrodošli.
?Samo što vas molimo da dok ste na penjalištu da budete tihi jer se njihove kuće nalaze odmah tu pod stijenama.

Uživajte! ?‍♂️

Ovaj projekat je podržan od MarketMakers-a (projekat podržan od Vlade Švicarske, koji implementira konzorcij Helvetas Schweiz i Kolektiv / Posao.ba.)

Aida Starcevic climbing „Origins“, 6b ? – One of the first climbs in the newly established area Preodac. Monroe Manson bolted it last weekend as his first route (hence the name) during our bolting weekend. Bravo!

This “BiH climbing fusion” project is funded by the Embassy of Switzerland in Bosnia and Herzegovina throughout MarketMakers, a project supported by the Government of Switzerland, implemented by a consortium of Helvetas Schweiz and Kolektiv / Posao.ba.

? David Lemmerer / Balkan Colours

Bolting

Bolting